Recovery
As I'm on the way to recovering from a bout of food poisoning and a crappy experience in general, I feel quite grateful to Arjun's cousin, Priyanka, for taking such good care of me....making sure I get the correct medications, ensuring I eat nothing more than kicheri....and just taking me in....
Thursday, January 20, 2005
Sunday, January 16, 2005
Jaipur
I came to Jaipur because Arjun and I had been here before and I thought this would be a gentle want to get acclimatized to travelling on my own. However, I forgot that Jaipur is the dirtiest city that I have seen in Rajasthan; it also seems to have more hassles than anywhere I've been in India. The first time I came to Jaipur I had the same annoying conversation three times. Well it happened again yesterday. A young Indian man walked up to me and said he wanted to know something: Why won't foreign talk to Indians? Typically this conversation has taken place in a market place. So why do you think I don't want to talk to you? Because I also don't want to go to your shop...There are variations on how this conversation begins: Why don't westerners like Indians?...Whatever!!! Why would we be here if we didn't like Indians? Please!!!! Anyways, yesterday I told this young man that I didn't want to talk because he was ugly. I explained ugly and kept walking...Really what else is there to say to that? (Thanks Arjun...seems you've rubbed off)
I came to Jaipur because Arjun and I had been here before and I thought this would be a gentle want to get acclimatized to travelling on my own. However, I forgot that Jaipur is the dirtiest city that I have seen in Rajasthan; it also seems to have more hassles than anywhere I've been in India. The first time I came to Jaipur I had the same annoying conversation three times. Well it happened again yesterday. A young Indian man walked up to me and said he wanted to know something: Why won't foreign talk to Indians? Typically this conversation has taken place in a market place. So why do you think I don't want to talk to you? Because I also don't want to go to your shop...There are variations on how this conversation begins: Why don't westerners like Indians?...Whatever!!! Why would we be here if we didn't like Indians? Please!!!! Anyways, yesterday I told this young man that I didn't want to talk because he was ugly. I explained ugly and kept walking...Really what else is there to say to that? (Thanks Arjun...seems you've rubbed off)
Eating
One of the most interesting things about travelling is eating. I try to eat things that are not readily available at home. However, in India I find I have to be super careful. The first time I was here I got food poisoning 3 times. I'm determined to stay healthy this time and still be adventurous. I'm fortunate because my husband's family is in Delhi. his cousin introduced me to the joys of eating sweet potatoes from the street vendor. This guy can mix up just the right amount of spicy and sweet. mmmm...My last night in Delhi was the night of Lohri, a Hindu celebration. On our way home we stopped at Nathus sweet shop. Outside they have a vendor selling pani puri. As Arjun's cousin, Priyanka, explained, it is the bubble that you (she gestures) poke a hole in and fill with potato/channa, chutney and this water mixture. You pop the whole thing in your mouth at once. That is also the right amount of sweet, spicy and crunchy. Another mmmmmmmmoment....Hesitant to try it? Yes I was, but not hesitant enough to stop from eating six of them!!! Now I'm on my own travelling around. No family to guide me in the right direction for food. I miss the home cooked meals and the companionship eating with family creates. Doesn't companion mean breaking bread together? Anyways I appreciate all that they have done for me, and their hospitality. I look forward to their companionship when I get back to Delhi.
One of the most interesting things about travelling is eating. I try to eat things that are not readily available at home. However, in India I find I have to be super careful. The first time I was here I got food poisoning 3 times. I'm determined to stay healthy this time and still be adventurous. I'm fortunate because my husband's family is in Delhi. his cousin introduced me to the joys of eating sweet potatoes from the street vendor. This guy can mix up just the right amount of spicy and sweet. mmmm...My last night in Delhi was the night of Lohri, a Hindu celebration. On our way home we stopped at Nathus sweet shop. Outside they have a vendor selling pani puri. As Arjun's cousin, Priyanka, explained, it is the bubble that you (she gestures) poke a hole in and fill with potato/channa, chutney and this water mixture. You pop the whole thing in your mouth at once. That is also the right amount of sweet, spicy and crunchy. Another mmmmmmmmoment....Hesitant to try it? Yes I was, but not hesitant enough to stop from eating six of them!!! Now I'm on my own travelling around. No family to guide me in the right direction for food. I miss the home cooked meals and the companionship eating with family creates. Doesn't companion mean breaking bread together? Anyways I appreciate all that they have done for me, and their hospitality. I look forward to their companionship when I get back to Delhi.
Wednesday, January 12, 2005
Rickshaws
I arrived in Delhi train station the other morning with my suitcase and a daypack. Much to the chagrin of the rickshaw drivers, I walked to Connaught Place. Crazy?!? I know to be in the tourist hub looking like I just got off the train....Anyways I had some errands to run and knew exactly where to go. Deciding that it was time to get to Masi and Uncle's shop, I took on the task of finding and negotiating with a rickshaw driver. The girl on the train figured it would be about 80-100 rupees for me to get to GK1 market. I had it in my head 50-70. And 70 it was...Even though I was later told that I could probably get it down a bit more, I was happy with that. I just wanted to get to where I wanted safely and for a reasonable amount of money. Besides, as a foreign tourist, I expect to pay a little more...fair or unfair as it may seem that's the way it is...Today I decided to go to Khan market from GK1. I asked a woman what I should expect to pay and she said 30 rupees and no more than 40. She then hired a rickshaw for me at 40 rupees. Coming back I was okay to pay the same but wanted to try for a little less. So I walked out into the street and a fellow approached me. he asked me how much I wanted to pay and I said 30. He said ok and told me to go with one fellow...Well that fellow looked at me and said how much? 50? No 30 I told him. I told the original guy that he told me 30 and he would have to get it organized for that amount. Just before he did, a local woman shook her head "it is the same old argument every time." Yeah I answered and the consolation for me is that we all have to argue whether we are foreign tourists or locals...
I arrived in Delhi train station the other morning with my suitcase and a daypack. Much to the chagrin of the rickshaw drivers, I walked to Connaught Place. Crazy?!? I know to be in the tourist hub looking like I just got off the train....Anyways I had some errands to run and knew exactly where to go. Deciding that it was time to get to Masi and Uncle's shop, I took on the task of finding and negotiating with a rickshaw driver. The girl on the train figured it would be about 80-100 rupees for me to get to GK1 market. I had it in my head 50-70. And 70 it was...Even though I was later told that I could probably get it down a bit more, I was happy with that. I just wanted to get to where I wanted safely and for a reasonable amount of money. Besides, as a foreign tourist, I expect to pay a little more...fair or unfair as it may seem that's the way it is...Today I decided to go to Khan market from GK1. I asked a woman what I should expect to pay and she said 30 rupees and no more than 40. She then hired a rickshaw for me at 40 rupees. Coming back I was okay to pay the same but wanted to try for a little less. So I walked out into the street and a fellow approached me. he asked me how much I wanted to pay and I said 30. He said ok and told me to go with one fellow...Well that fellow looked at me and said how much? 50? No 30 I told him. I told the original guy that he told me 30 and he would have to get it organized for that amount. Just before he did, a local woman shook her head "it is the same old argument every time." Yeah I answered and the consolation for me is that we all have to argue whether we are foreign tourists or locals...
Shopping for books
One of the things that I was most looking forward to before I came to India was shopping. And it hasn't disappointed...particularly for books. I bought three books today for about a total of $25. Now some of you might say that that is not such a great deal. However, consider that in a used bookstore in Kamloops I would have paid about the same...Also, I bought "The Davinci Code" in paperback for about $8. I was told at Chapters that that wasn't going to happen for a long time due to how well it was selling in hardcover...at $35...books will certainly be something I stock up on before I return to Canada...By the way, for those who are travelling to India for the first time, "India Today" always has great recommendations for books...The last time I was here I picked up two that were reviewed and gave them as gifts...Anyways I always manage to find the time and if you can believe it the peace and quiet to read here in India...
One of the things that I was most looking forward to before I came to India was shopping. And it hasn't disappointed...particularly for books. I bought three books today for about a total of $25. Now some of you might say that that is not such a great deal. However, consider that in a used bookstore in Kamloops I would have paid about the same...Also, I bought "The Davinci Code" in paperback for about $8. I was told at Chapters that that wasn't going to happen for a long time due to how well it was selling in hardcover...at $35...books will certainly be something I stock up on before I return to Canada...By the way, for those who are travelling to India for the first time, "India Today" always has great recommendations for books...The last time I was here I picked up two that were reviewed and gave them as gifts...Anyways I always manage to find the time and if you can believe it the peace and quiet to read here in India...
Tuesday, January 11, 2005
India and me
I'm so happy to be back in India. I love this country. Sure I have frustrations in dealing with the crowds, traffic, touts and just general chaos. But, just when I feel I'm about to explode, things just work out. In India, things always just seem to work out. I don't know how or why, but they do. Perhaps it is as a friend said to me that in North America people are ruled by rules; whereas in India, people rule the rules. I'm not sure that I put it as eloquently as he did but that's the gist of it. There are a number of people who know that I'm not a patient person and that would probably be the gentle way to say that. However, in India, I have all the patience in the world. I guess because I know that it is going to work out. Predeep, a designer from Germany, asked me the other night how I survive in this country. The only word I had was surrender. Surrendering to India is the only way to get by here. I'm sure that certain things have changed due to tourism and the money it brings. But fundamentally, India is and does what it is and does despite the almighty dollar. I wish more countries were like this. My Dad asked me today if India is as exciting as it was when I came here the first time. This trip so far has just firmed up what I felt when I left India in Dec 2003. I know that this will not be my last time to visit this country of crowds, cows and chaos. So far I am enjoying my second and hopefully lifetime love affair. (I promise Arjun you are the first!!!)
I'm so happy to be back in India. I love this country. Sure I have frustrations in dealing with the crowds, traffic, touts and just general chaos. But, just when I feel I'm about to explode, things just work out. In India, things always just seem to work out. I don't know how or why, but they do. Perhaps it is as a friend said to me that in North America people are ruled by rules; whereas in India, people rule the rules. I'm not sure that I put it as eloquently as he did but that's the gist of it. There are a number of people who know that I'm not a patient person and that would probably be the gentle way to say that. However, in India, I have all the patience in the world. I guess because I know that it is going to work out. Predeep, a designer from Germany, asked me the other night how I survive in this country. The only word I had was surrender. Surrendering to India is the only way to get by here. I'm sure that certain things have changed due to tourism and the money it brings. But fundamentally, India is and does what it is and does despite the almighty dollar. I wish more countries were like this. My Dad asked me today if India is as exciting as it was when I came here the first time. This trip so far has just firmed up what I felt when I left India in Dec 2003. I know that this will not be my last time to visit this country of crowds, cows and chaos. So far I am enjoying my second and hopefully lifetime love affair. (I promise Arjun you are the first!!!)
Ami
One of the reasons I returned to India is to see Ami. For those of you who don't know, Ami is Arjun's grandmother. She was wonderful and welcoming when I came to India the first time. This time we had our meals together and she told me stories. I never knew my grandmother that well and I figured that I should get to see her while the getting is good. I'm glad that I came to see her. Like the first time, she sent out for snacks at tea time - samosas, katchoris, gulab jaman, ras gullah....I had promised myself that I would tell her not to do this. However, it is a small thing that gives both of us a lot of pleasure. Besides when I get out travelling on my own, I probably won't eat quite so well. Anyways I look forward to seeing Ami again in February and sharing these sweet treats.
One of the reasons I returned to India is to see Ami. For those of you who don't know, Ami is Arjun's grandmother. She was wonderful and welcoming when I came to India the first time. This time we had our meals together and she told me stories. I never knew my grandmother that well and I figured that I should get to see her while the getting is good. I'm glad that I came to see her. Like the first time, she sent out for snacks at tea time - samosas, katchoris, gulab jaman, ras gullah....I had promised myself that I would tell her not to do this. However, it is a small thing that gives both of us a lot of pleasure. Besides when I get out travelling on my own, I probably won't eat quite so well. Anyways I look forward to seeing Ami again in February and sharing these sweet treats.
Taking the train
This morning I went to Ludhiana train station at 6:45. Shortly after I got there, it was announced that the train was 20 minutes late. Behind me there was a lady standing with her baby. We had a brief conversation. On my previous trip, I realized that I wasn't going to be included in Arjun's conversation with other men. The best thing for me to do is talk to other women or children. And the ideal is to talk to women with children. Anyways the porter put my bag on the train and I sat down. This same lady a few rows in front had asked the fellow next to her to trade seats with me. So she signalled me and invited me to sit with her. I was happy to oblige since I saw that there was little chance of meeting anyone sitting near me. We had brief conversations in our 4.5 hour train ride, but it was very fulfilling for both of us. I was able to help her with her baby in our limited space, and she was one more person who put me in touch with India. Both of us went our separate ways, but I appreciate her inviting me to share that brief moment in time with her.
This morning I went to Ludhiana train station at 6:45. Shortly after I got there, it was announced that the train was 20 minutes late. Behind me there was a lady standing with her baby. We had a brief conversation. On my previous trip, I realized that I wasn't going to be included in Arjun's conversation with other men. The best thing for me to do is talk to other women or children. And the ideal is to talk to women with children. Anyways the porter put my bag on the train and I sat down. This same lady a few rows in front had asked the fellow next to her to trade seats with me. So she signalled me and invited me to sit with her. I was happy to oblige since I saw that there was little chance of meeting anyone sitting near me. We had brief conversations in our 4.5 hour train ride, but it was very fulfilling for both of us. I was able to help her with her baby in our limited space, and she was one more person who put me in touch with India. Both of us went our separate ways, but I appreciate her inviting me to share that brief moment in time with her.
Monday, January 10, 2005
Chai anyone?
About a year after the first and only post I'm finally writing again...This time from where else but India!!! One of my favourite customs in India is to have chai in the morning. Each morning when I wake up I have chai and biscuits served to me in bed...Nice eh!!!!
The other day I had a different chai experience. Something I had seen but not done.
I went to the Internet cafe in Ludhiana. The owner recognized me from our previous trip. After inquiring how Arjun and I were, the owner invited me to sit down and have tea. He had his employee run out and get some chai. There we sat in the storefront chatting and drinking chai. For no other reason than to sit and chat and have chai.
This might seem insignificant. However, it truly is a very Indian experience. And in a country and a town where I stand out like a sore thumb, this simple act made me feel accepted.
That small experience put a smile on my face for the rest of the day. I really appreciate the owner, Mr. Bajwa, for welcoming me like he did. I hope that this won't be the last time this gesture is exptended to me.
About a year after the first and only post I'm finally writing again...This time from where else but India!!! One of my favourite customs in India is to have chai in the morning. Each morning when I wake up I have chai and biscuits served to me in bed...Nice eh!!!!
The other day I had a different chai experience. Something I had seen but not done.
I went to the Internet cafe in Ludhiana. The owner recognized me from our previous trip. After inquiring how Arjun and I were, the owner invited me to sit down and have tea. He had his employee run out and get some chai. There we sat in the storefront chatting and drinking chai. For no other reason than to sit and chat and have chai.
This might seem insignificant. However, it truly is a very Indian experience. And in a country and a town where I stand out like a sore thumb, this simple act made me feel accepted.
That small experience put a smile on my face for the rest of the day. I really appreciate the owner, Mr. Bajwa, for welcoming me like he did. I hope that this won't be the last time this gesture is exptended to me.
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